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What did Ibn Battuta see in Baghdad after the Mongols?

A century after the Mongol sack of Baghdad, Ibn Battuta walked its diminished streets and recorded what had been lost — and what, against every expectation, had survived.

10 passages from 4 books in the library

Ibn Battuta reached Baghdad, "the abode of peace," roughly a century after the Mongol catastrophe he himself records: the Tatars' entry into "the seat of Islam and the Caliphate" and the killing of the Caliph al-Mustasim Billah al-Abbasi, whom he prays God to have mercy on. Yet the city still lived. His arrival coincided with the presence of the King of Iraq, the sultan Shaykh Hassan; he met learned men such as the Baghdadi jurist al-Sarsari, and he still rated Baghdad's markets superior to those he saw elsewhere.

Drawn from the classical sources below — in the scholars' own words.

Where the answer comes from

The classical approach.

These passages are drawn from 4 books by Ibn Battuta and Imam al-Ghazali — part of the classical Sunni tradition that carries over a thousand years of reflection on the Qurʾān, the authentic Sunnah, and the consensus of the early community. Nothing below is a paraphrase. The words are the scholars' own, translated from the original Arabic manuscripts.

Read them closely. If a passage doesn't sit right, open the full book in the library and listen to the chapter around it. Context in the classical tradition is everything.

Cover of Volume One: From Tangier to the Lands of the East
Volume One: From Tangier to the Lands of the East
Ibn Battuta · Rihla — The Travels of Ibn Battuta

14th century · Tangier, Morocco
The Riḥlah — a 30-year, 75,000-mile journey across three continents, and the most important travel account of the pre-modern world.
More on Ibn Battuta → · Provenance →

  1. "We then journeyed from there to Baghdad, the city of Baghdad, Baghdad, the abode of peace"

  2. "Among its praises by women of Baghdad, alas for its Baghdad and Iraq, and its gazelles"

  3. "Tenghis later returned to Iraq, culminating in the Tatar's entry into the seat of Islam and the Caliphate, Baghdad, leading to the massacre of the Caliph al-Mustasim Billah al-Abbasi. May God have mercy on him."

  4. "My arrival in Baghdad coincided with the presence of the King of Iraq, let us mention him here."

Cover of Volume Two: From India to the Lands of the West
Volume Two: From India to the Lands of the West
Ibn Battuta · Rihla — The Travels of Ibn Battuta

14th century · Tangier, Morocco
The Riḥlah — a 30-year, 75,000-mile journey across three continents, and the most important travel account of the pre-modern world.
More on Ibn Battuta → · Provenance →

  1. "There, I encountered a distinguished jurist from Baghdad called al-Sarsari, named after a town ten miles from Baghdad on the road to Kufa, its name being the same as the sur sur near us in the Maghreb."

  2. "al-Din in Baghdad and confirmed his lineage to the Baghdad scholars. He testified to the Sultan"

  3. "I compared it to Baghdad, except for Baghdad's superior markets. In Marrakech, there is a"

  4. "this. During my visit, the sultan of Baghdad and Iraq was Sheikh Hassan, son of Sultan"

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